Hiking the Gorges of Western New York: Niagara Gorge and Zoar Valley

After feeling a little sick for the last two weeks, I haven't been out hiking too much at all.  Finally though, I am feeling a little better and decided to hit up some of Western New York's gorges in the last couple days.  It felt good to return to the trails and experience the beauty of our region. 

Friday, February 17th, Niagara Gorge: I jut needed a quick walk, something to get my blood pumping and feel the invigoration that the outdoors offers.  It wasn't going to be a long walk, maybe just a few miles - it was just what I needed.

I parked at Whirlpool, grabbed my pack with "The Ten Essentials" and headed down the rim trail toward the stairs to the gorge.  It was overcast, nothing uncommon for winter in the Buffalo area. Albeit the temperatures, today around 33 degrees, have been all too warm this winter.  I can't remember a winter with this little snow.  The trails were a little icy though so I slipped my kahtoola microspikes on for traction.

I reached the bottom of the gorge and started to turn right toward Devil's Hole to come up that set of stairs, when I thought it may be a nice day to chill out by the Whirlpool.  I turned left.

The water was that cool aqua-sea-green color, a color which has no match and can't be captured in photographs.  Though as I reached the churning of the Whirlpool and the channel of rapids that leads into it, the choppy water took on hues of pure white and shimmers of blue.

I pulled out my closed-cell sit pad, put on an extra layer, and sat by the water for some time.  I'm always amazed, given the visitors to Niagara Falls, that there aren't more visitors down in the gorge.  With the exception of a Canadian fisherman across the way, I was the only one down there.  I did however, see fisherman along the trail as I headed out.

When I reached the Whirlpool stairs to go back up, I was feeling pretty good and headed down toward my original departure point at Devil's Hole.  Though the trail was a little washed out in places, everything is surely passable and easy to follow.

Though I was a little apprehensive about the stairs, given a couple of weeks of inactivity, I had no problem bounding up them.  Sure, I was a little more winded than usual, but I refused to take a break until I reached the top.

For maps for a great  Niagara gorge hike, check out "A Short Hiking Trail into the Scenic Niagara Falls Gorge: Devil's Hole


Saturday February 18th, Zoar Valley:  Our search and rescue team had mountaineering training at Zoar Valley a natural gorge of Cattaraugus Creek.  Zoar Valley is one of those wild places and a popular destination for fisherman, white water kayakers, hikers, and hunters.  One of our team's first calls was concerning Zoar, so we have to be prepared to get down there in any conditions.

Our team parked near the access point on Forty Road, divided up climbing equipment, and split into three and four person teams.  We found the rough unmarked trail and headed toward the Knife Edge. 

Many of us had been to the access point before, so we had the edge waypointed in our GPS units.  The trails back there are a twisted mixture of old jeep roads, game trails, and attempted bushwhacks.  The last time our team went back here, the trail we were following dead-ended in a tangled mess of honeysuckle and multiflora rose.  I think I still have scars from that one.  I won't tell you that I was leading the way either...

After demonstrating the technique for our ascent and descent, we walked down the precarious knife edge.  Though I do higher angels than this unroped, as a team we have to make sure we can get down and up safely.  Also, the soft shale of Zoar is eroding and undercutting many of the steeper sections; you never know when the ground will give out beneath your feet.  It's nice to know that someone has your back. 

We did a little training at the bottom of the gorge, discussing patient packaging and field improvisation techniques.  Of course, we had a little lunch and passed around a bag of delicious Hudson Bay Bread and venison sausage. 

The walk up wasn't bad and I switched from tail end of the rope (the mule of the team) to lead position (the person that chooses route and employs anchors). 

About half-way out of the gorge, it began to actually snow and blow pretty good. I kind of felt like I was up in the Adirondacks for a little bit.  Odd as it may sound, the blowing snow felt great.  A great opportunity for training in one of those hidden gems of Western New York. 

Photo by Manon Paquet

The following Sunday was indeed a day of "rest," though I used it for packing for my upcoming move.  Had I not been so busy, I would have driven over to Letchworth for a quick hike.  To hike all three in three days would be the triple crown of Western New York gorge hiking.  

December 18th: Niagara Falls Gorge

I hate nothing more than a wasted day.  And what is a wasted day?  A day spent indoors, sheltered from the experience of adventure.  Granted some days spent indoors are fine, but repetitive days with eyes glued on the tv - that is indeed a wasted life.  Anyway, with a few flurries in the air, slight patches of sun, and the Buffalo Bills playing I decided to go play myself down in the Niagara Falls Gorge.  Speaking of wasted time, any time watching my hometown team, the Bills is not only wasted: it is often heartbreaking. 
I decided to just take a short hike down in the gorge today and spend my time reflecting and maybe do a little writing. Though I think well when I walk,  for walking is conducive to thinking, sometimes it is good to sit by the river on a rock with pad and pen.  Plus, I am doing research for my Niagara Falls hiking guide which I can hopefully have done by the spring. 
So I parked at the Devil's Hole State Park parking lot and headed over to the Rim Trail to overlook the river.  I could see the mist rising from the thunderous Niagara Falls, but unless you are in an aircraft you can't see the Falls from this point.   I preceded along the top of the gorge, passing a few people walking their dogs but that was it.  Between the biting December wind and the muddy trails, you could tell it was far past tourist season.  It's funny how Niagara Falls seems to shut down at certain times of the year.  Of course, for those of you who live near the falls like I do, you know how depressing our city's lack of vision and plan can be.  This is especially true as we look across the river to Canada and see a bustling economy from the tourism industry.  Niagara Falls is a place of many sighs - good and bad.
Many people don't like the old stairs that descend into the gorge, nor the heart pounding climb associated with them, but for me it is a place to work out and get my blood pumping a little.  Sure, you can have your gym - I'll take the outdoors any day.  As I went down the stairs, a fisherman and his dog was coming up.  He was trying to catch his breath as he told me not to worry about the ice below.  I thanked him, but kept my microspikes for walking on ice on for just a little while longer.  It was a little slippery walking on those contorted stone near the top. 

With exception of a far off fisherman and some Canadians doing whatever they were doing across the border I found solitude near the river that day.  Only the gulls perched on their rocks and my shadow kept me company.  The walking is easy once you reach bottom and the opportunities to head off the trail down by the water or up to the cliffs are boundless.  The gorge is one of those places you can spend a lifetime hiking and never be plagued with boredom. 
I spent some time as planned just sitting by the river.  I had my search and rescue pack with me for weight and was glad I had some additional layers and my closed-cell foam sitting pad.  It can be hard to think, to ponder the mysteries of the universe when you are entering hypothermia.  Today was one of those days where I sat for too long and it took a while to warm my body back up for hiking. 

Though there was some ice covering the upper Whirlpool stairs, I was happy to see icicles forming along some of the rock formations.  There is something about snow and ice which is magical, perhaps it is part of being a Buffalonian.  And yes, there is always a cool factor about hiking on it. 
After the 1 mile walk along the river bottom I returned back along Devil's Hole stairs.  I always like walking up through there, maybe it is the history but it is always very pretty.  As a Lord of the Rings fan, it kind of looks like something out of Rivendell to me with old stone work entwined around nature.  But after 2.5 miles I returned back to my car shortly before the winter sun set.  I was revitalized from the walk and my thoughts.